Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 1,481 total · 15/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Great stone and thrilling movement make this route among Shelf's better 13a's. The business is brief, but gymnastic, commiting, and fun.

Stick clip the first bolt, then make deceptively difficult moves to gain the wall. Good pockets lead to a good stance below the bulge. Follow rounded, slanting crimps and less than ideal pockets up the scoop to a make-or-break huck for the obvious heuco. Pull onto the slab and manage the pump over steadily easing terrain to reach the anchor.


On the Heaven Wall, immediately right of "Stairway to Heaven" and 2nd route left of "Boulder Hypocricy", climbing through a black, concave bulge.


~5 bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.


Why this route only gets a few stars in the guidebook is beyond me. It is one of the best 5.13s I have been on at Shelf. The rock quality is stellar, and the route is characterized by steep, dynamic moves through a bulge. This eases to a number of powerful yet technical moves to establish over the bulge. The route is incredibly fun, and the crag has some of the better limestone in the canyon. Apr 12, 2011
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
I ripped the 2nd left side pull after the crux. That section is now kinda height dependent to do. There is other potential beta but seem much harder. Sep 1, 2014
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Way to keep it solid, Kai. =) Aug 7, 2017