Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The North End

Aggro Monk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Black Uhuru S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blo Jo Jono S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Boulder Hypocricy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning in the Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Form, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Function, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houses of the Holy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I Like It Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Coral S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Primera Vez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Laser Gods S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makadon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mono Jono S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New and Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nyorgai S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quiet Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Swanktofy Yourself S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thing 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thing 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Hand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under the Milky Way S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up Your Booty Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 1,253 total, 14/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Great stone and thrilling movement make this route among Shelf's better 13a's. The business is brief, but gymnastic, commiting, and fun.

Stick clip the first bolt, then make deceptively difficult moves to gain the wall. Good pockets lead to a good stance below the bulge. Follow rounded, slanting crimps and less than ideal pockets up the scoop to a make-or-break huck for the obvious heuco. Pull onto the slab and manage the pump over steadily easing terrain to reach the anchor.

Location

On the Heaven Wall, immediately right of "Stairway to Heaven" and 2nd route left of "Boulder Hypocricy", climbing through a black, concave bulge.

Protection

~5 bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Way to keep it solid, Kai. =) Aug 7, 2017
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
 
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
 
I ripped the 2nd left side pull after the crux. That section is now kinda height dependent to do. There is other potential beta but seem much harder. Sep 1, 2014
Why this route only gets a few stars in the guidebook is beyond me. It is one of the best 5.13s I have been on at Shelf. The rock quality is stellar, and the route is characterized by steep, dynamic moves through a bulge. This eases to a number of powerful yet technical moves to establish over the bulge. The route is incredibly fun, and the crag has some of the better limestone in the canyon. Apr 12, 2011