Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 1,978 total · 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Great stone and thrilling movement make this route among Shelf's better 13a's. The business is brief, but gymnastic, commiting, and fun.

Stick clip the first bolt, then make deceptively difficult moves to gain the wall. Good pockets lead to a good stance below the bulge. Follow rounded, slanting crimps and less than ideal pockets up the scoop to a make-or-break huck for the obvious heuco. Pull onto the slab and manage the pump over steadily easing terrain to reach the anchor.

Location

On the Heaven Wall, immediately right of "Stairway to Heaven" and 2nd route left of "Boulder Hypocricy", climbing through a black, concave bulge.

Protection

~5 bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos