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Routes in The North End

Aggro Monk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Black Uhuru S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blo Jo Jono S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Boulder Hypocricy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning in the Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Form, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Function, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houses of the Holy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I Like It Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Coral S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Primera Vez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Laser Gods S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makadon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mono Jono S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New and Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nyorgai S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quiet Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Swanktofy Yourself S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thing 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thing 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Hand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under the Milky Way S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up Your Booty Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989
Page Views: 601 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

If only this route were as long as the song. The climbing is great while it lasts, but unfortunately it's over well before the guitar solo.

Begin a bit left of the bolt line, next to an old maid yammering about glitter. Make non-trivial moves up and right to a good stance below the bulge, near a confusing sign.

Make big reaches over the bulge, ultimately reaching some good pockets just over the bulge. Try not to be distracted by the singing birds.

Think about it.

Try not to sob when you discover how small and slopey the holds on the slab are. Work up desperately to the low anchor and some smoky trees.

No more rock, so you'll have to hum the rest while you thread the anchor...piper will lead us...echo with laughter...May queen...yes there are two paths....

Location

This is the fifth route from the right side of the Heaven Wall, or 2nd route right of a right-facing dihedral.

...your head is humming and it won't go....

Protection

4 bolts to 2 BA.
...Dear Lady, can you hear the wind blow....

Photos

slim

  5.12a/b
slim    
  5.12a/b
A short classic that is destined for considerable airplay, try to be a rock and not to roll on this one.... Nov 3, 2014