Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989
Page Views: 709 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

If only this route were as long as the song. The climbing is great while it lasts, but unfortunately it's over well before the guitar solo.

Begin a bit left of the bolt line, next to an old maid yammering about glitter. Make non-trivial moves up and right to a good stance below the bulge, near a confusing sign.

Make big reaches over the bulge, ultimately reaching some good pockets just over the bulge. Try not to be distracted by the singing birds.

Think about it.

Try not to sob when you discover how small and slopey the holds on the slab are. Work up desperately to the low anchor and some smoky trees.

No more rock, so you'll have to hum the rest while you thread the anchor...piper will lead us...echo with laughter...May queen...yes there are two paths....

Location

This is the fifth route from the right side of the Heaven Wall, or 2nd route right of a right-facing dihedral.

...your head is humming and it won't go....

Protection

4 bolts to 2 BA.
...Dear Lady, can you hear the wind blow....

Photos

slim

  5.12a/b
slim    
  5.12a/b
A short classic that is destined for considerable airplay, try to be a rock and not to roll on this one.... Nov 3, 2014