Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: JSt, EFR, Gier Hundal, Aliex Capdevila
Page Views: 284 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

Steep jugs leads to thin crux at the top. Great climbing all the way.

Location

On Raven A. Hike down past Murray Wall. Raven A forms the second gully on the downhill side of Murray Wall. Boulder up, behind and onto a huge chock stone in the Gully. Both Layer Cake and Lemmon Meringue start off the chock stone. Lemmon Meringue is the right route.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Photos

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1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
This climb is "bakerized" at the top. In other words the bolts were placed in a manner that discourages pulling on to the lower angle slab to the right and keeps you on the steeper face. Once you commit to the moves to clip the last bolt pulling on to the slab would be hard to do. If you pull on to the low angle face the entire route is 10+. Climbing the slab means you will not be clipping the last bolt which makes for a long run to the anchors. The forced finish has fun moves and leaves the OS,RP or flash in doubt to the anchors. Gotta love that. Oct 11, 2010
True, it's like being forced to spell complicated names while you could just leave them out of the FA list. Oct 12, 2010
Jimbo
  5.11a
Jimbo  
  5.11a
Why, Aleix I don't know of what you speak. Oct 15, 2010