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Routes in The Dedication Area

Castaways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dedication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diss-N-Dazz T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Five What? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Move it or Lose it S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Robinson Crusoe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Six Bolts and a Plug S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Survivor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Graham & Bob Ahearn
Page Views: 1,193 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Graham on Oct 9, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Description: Difficult steep face climbing. 5 bolts and some gear at mid-height.

Pitch 1: Climb the face past three bolts, make a dynamic move to a horizontal hold (possible .5), move feet up and shoot for the top of the block (.5-.75 behind the block). Make a delicate and difficult mantle move up to a rest and 4th bolt. move slightly left to an obvious flake and undercling and make thin moves up and left of next bolt. A balancy exit move will hold your attention until you are clear of the slab.




Location

Directions: Located on a face 20' right of the Dedication Corner (12' right of Bondi Beach). Good spacious, and flat stance for the belay.

Descent: Rappel from the trees

Protection

draws and cams from 0.5-.075

5 bolts

Tree anchor with stainless rap rings

Photos

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Dhane Knakkergaard
Intervale, NH
 
Dhane Knakkergaard   Intervale, NH
 
It certainly may have been! Considering the weather and lack of dry rock around I may have been on it more than once this spring haha. Was their another male climber present as well? I do recall seeing a party around on one of those days. Wonderful route btw Chris, really enjoy it. Apr 21, 2017
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Dhane, was That you I saw on it a couple of weeks ago climbing with a female partner? We had just done Wanderlust and a couple of routes over at the Geriatric wall when we saw a climber topping out on it?! Apr 21, 2017
Dhane Knakkergaard
Intervale, NH
 
Dhane Knakkergaard   Intervale, NH
 
Fun lil guy! Such great movement, and that mantle sure does get your attention. Apr 18, 2017
climbed this the other day and although Ive had trouble at the dynamic move in the past found this to be a great and challenging route. I think that the crux is not only the dynamic/deadpoint but also the moves getting set up for it after clipping the second bolt. As an onsight I would agree with the 11a grade however if you know the moves it feels considerably easier around 10c/d. In comparison to other 11- routes at this cliff I would say it feels a tad easier. Jun 12, 2014
Did it yesterday for the first time. Took one hang at the third bolt then got it. Top roped it after and got it clean my first try. I would say 5.11 is acurate although sustained imop it is no harder. Sep 17, 2013
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Psyched you liked it Steve. The route definitely stays with you for sure. Could be a bit tougher than we rated it...consensus??? Apr 18, 2013
wow .... great route. full on from start to finish! seems stiffer than 5.11a to me, particularly as an onsight. what do others think? Sep 14, 2012
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Sot on this again after a year or so. Damn it's on you from the moment you leave the ground...but what a fun route. Sep 13, 2012
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
5.11a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
5.11a
Good climbing Oct 23, 2011
Jeremy A
NH
 
Jeremy A   NH
 
Great route with some fabulous movement. Its amazing how the top mantle holds your attention so much after the rest of the route...good stuff. Aug 30, 2011