5.12b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 15
votes
FA: Porter Jarrard
Tennessee
> Laurel Falls
Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas
Details
Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.
Description
Start to the left of the overhanging prow/roof feature. Climb two bolts (on Next To The Last Boy Scout 5.12) then break right for the third bolt. A traversing right throw near the third bolt to a big hidden jug will set you up to continue into the steepness. Now climb straight up for the fourth bolt and on. Stay several feet left of the prow the whole time and follow the natural line into slopers and a sloping vertical crack crux.
Location
Look for the overhanging prow feature 15' right of Monkey Boy. Start to the left of the arete. You climb two bolts straight on Next to the Last (5.12) then break right on then straight up on independent bolts.
Protection
Quickdraws, Rusty anchor. Another anchor is also 4 feet away. I put a long draw on the 2nd bolt.