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Routes in Left of main southeast face

Crimpers delight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky 13th (CRS) pitch 1 - 5.10c, pitch 2 5.11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
On second thought T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
One Pitch Wonder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sailor Moon T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Save the Shrimp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scarecrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seam of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spooktacular T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Treat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Zombie Spoof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown 2010
Page Views: 989 total · 10/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 7, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

This is an ultra-fun single pitch line that starts off on steep face climbing and ends up traversing out underneath a huge 30'+ roof crack/corner! A very unusual type of climbing for whitesides, more reminiscent of Moores Wall. The name is a reference to a stellar yet underappreciated route at Moores... I know of several people that have looked at this thing for years, but for some reason, never climbed it.

P-1 Climb steep rock past 2 bolts and a hidden .5 cam (left) just shy of the ledge. A funky mantel up onto the small ledge gains an awkward but useful rest. Once rested, step up to clip bolt in dark streak, and continue to the roof. Getting established into the crack is a bit cruxy, but after that, the crack is excellent all the way to the 2 bolt anchor above (and right) of the roof. Note: watch the rope drag/partner-swinging potential at the end of the crack.

Location

This is past "one pitch wonder" if heading to the main wall. Locate the steep west facing wall (toward you) capped by a large roof 60' up.

Protection

3 bolts, standard rack plus double cams from thin hand to fist size, and one 4 inch piece.

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