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Momma Cindy
5.11a,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 301
votes
FA: Tim Powers, Mike Susko, Jared Hancock, 2004
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit
Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at
muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Start under a difficult roof on a jug. Move out of the roof using small holds to a small ledge. Make the difficult move over the roof (crux) to get established on the ledge above. Follow the technical and sustained section above using slopers, crimps, and the occasional good hold.
Location
Between Little T-bone and Edge-a-Sketch at a roof. A 60m to rap.
Protection
6 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks.
Dayton, OH
Clemson, SC
Red River Gorge, KY