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Momma Cindy

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 301 votes
FA: Tim Powers, Mike Susko, Jared Hancock, 2004
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Great Wall
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

Start under a difficult roof on a jug. Move out of the roof using small holds to a small ledge. Make the difficult move over the roof (crux) to get established on the ledge above. Follow the technical and sustained section above using slopers, crimps, and the occasional good hold.

Location

Between Little T-bone and Edge-a-Sketch at a roof. A 60m to rap.

Protection

6 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Base of the great wall
[Hide Photo] Base of the great wall
view of the bolt line
[Hide Photo] view of the bolt line
Onsight send
[Hide Photo] Onsight send

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I'm 5'7 and did a small dyno to start this route, which was super fun but I wouldn't want to do it without a stick clip. My partner was 6'8 and reached over the roof with his feet on the ground... Nov 28, 2014
Brian Fane
Dayton, OH
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Great route! Very different style than most of the Red. Aug 30, 2015
S. Neoh
5.11b
[Hide Comment] Good route. Def stick clip. IMO, V2+ boulder problem to sustained .11a/b climbing to the top. I give it 2.5 stars. Oct 26, 2015
Chris K
Clemson, SC
 
[Hide Comment] Great vertical 11a. Do it. Mar 20, 2019
Ryan R
 
[Hide Comment] The 3rd bolt is run out by RRG standards and the movement to a good clipping position is awkward. Took a pretty scary whip my second time up. Nov 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed the route. Going from the start through the roof to the first bolt is definitely the crux. Would recommend a stick clip. After that, the difficulty drops quite a bit. Still a few more tough moves but there are plenty of spots to take long rests and recover/think. Apr 19, 2022
DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Updated with SS Glue-ins and mussy hooks 5/2024. May 14, 2024