The Greatest Show On Earth
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Lynn Hill, Tim Toula 1988 |
Page Views: | 9,943 total · 61/month |
Shared By: | jgallagher Gallagher on Oct 5, 2010 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This is one of the prettiest pitches of climbing in the southeast as well as one of the most intimidating looking finger cracks just about anywhere.
Tim did the first ascent of The Ringmaster a couple month's before Lynn Hill added this spectacular variation finish.
Start the same as Ringmaster on top of a boulder just down and right of a fixed pin. Climb through a slightly heady but easy opening section up to the base of the roof passing two fixed pins and a gear placement. From a pumpy stance on a slopey jug place several good cams and get your head together for an amazing roof sequence on horizontal finger locks. A few crimps to the left of the crack as well as a good hand jam near the end of the roof make this roof possible. A huge jug just over the lip allows you to place a much appreciated piece of gear. From the jug a couple lock offs on good slots get you into the corner. Place gear from a decent rest stance and gun for a good hand jam before the business of the corner. Slopey laybacks and miserable feet with insecure stems characterize the middle part of the corner and placing gear is pretty strenuous. In the last 15 feet of the corner the crack opens up and allows for great hands but the feet stay pretty bad so its still relatively strenuous to place gear. Its easy enough to where you will almost want to just punch through and not bother with gear. It would be a long fall but very clean, the choice is yours.
Protection
Note that the face leading up to the roof has definite no fall zones just because the pins are very sketchy looking. Up until the first real gear placement the climbing is 5.9-5.10R.
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