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Routes in Southwest Corner

Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Powder! T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Rotert, Sandy Fleming, Steve Pachman, 1981
Page Views: 890 total · 10/month
Shared By: andjoely on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Though a little dirty, this amazing overhanging crack system deserves way more traffic and will clean up nicely if more people get on it. It was originally graded 5.10 but it sure felt every bit 5.11a to me.

P1: Climb easy terrain to crack, follow crack to bushy ledge and belay on gear (140 feet)
P2: Continue up cracks to below some blocky roofs, escape on face to the right and continue to the top (70 feet)

Location

The obvious wide crack system 30 feet right of boulder problem in the sky.

Protection

Doubles of cams including some bigger stuff to #5 camalot if you want to sew it up.

Photos

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nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
If you're into wide cracks, and IF this thing were cleaned up a lot, this could be a really nice line. The bushes on this thing are probably worse than the dirt factor, but the crack climbing is pretty cool. Jan 7, 2017