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Routes in 7.1.3 - The Turret

Bartizan TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crows Nest T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Turret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turret Direct TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 55 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A blank looking face above leads to feature that seem to come out of nowhere!

Location

South face of the Turret. Follow the left crack until it disappears and follow the corner to the top.

Protection

Trad.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Gear to about 2 inches.

As usual, the crux is at the start. It protects well. Just beyond, there is an ancient piton left of the corner. From there, the climbing is fairly easy although the best holds will not be obvious. There are also 1 - 2 strategic horizontal seams for gear that are hard to spot from the ground.

Hard to set a nice TR on this one: sling the block or use a good horizontal 4 feet down. Either way, a TR kind of cheats the climber of the last satisfying move. Dec 3, 2012