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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ramier/Wyland
Page Views: 2,254 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Just another 4 star lower wall classic free climb. This is essentially the free variation of Snow White. The original snow white takes the thin crack from the start of princely ambitions directly to the mini roof at the 3rd bolt.

This route has at least 4 different 5.11 sections in addition to the all points off 7 ft sideways dyno at the crux. If you are taller than 6'6", you may be able to reach past the dyno. Shorter people might find the dyno to be impossibly long.

If the dyno isn't your style, this route makes an almost as good 5.11d, A0. Highly recommended.

Location

Take the trail up towards Rogers corner, but break right just before you reach that route. This will deposit you on a nice little shelf approximately 30 feet up and left of the start of princely ambitions. This route shares anchors with princely ambitions. Rappel to the starting shelf is possible with a 70m rope, but you cannot rappel all the way to the ground.

Protection

Mostly bolted, but some gear is needed before the final bolt. Most will want to stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

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Stamati
Bellingham, WA
  5.12b
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
  5.12b
Greg, after the dyno head up and left on easy (runout-ish) ground to a bolt below a left facing corner. Go up the corner, which is rather tenuous and tricky. Bring a #1 for the pod. I feel that this is the most difficult part of the route despite the fact that I'm 5'8". It is quite different in character than the rest of the climb.

Also, I took a big whip on a #5 Micronut and am planning on going back for it, so please don't booty it anyone! Mar 13, 2016
GregH
San Diego, CA
GregH   San Diego, CA
I see where this thing starts but how does it end? Does it join up with Princely of just keep going straight up? Aug 1, 2011