Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ramier/Wyland
Page Views: 2,717 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Just another 4 star lower wall classic free climb. This is essentially the free variation of Snow White. The original snow white takes the thin crack from the start of princely ambitions directly to the mini roof at the 3rd bolt.

This route has at least 4 different 5.11 sections in addition to the all points off 7 ft sideways dyno at the crux. If you are taller than 6'6", you may be able to reach past the dyno. Shorter people might find the dyno to be impossibly long.

If the dyno isn't your style, this route makes an almost as good 5.11d, A0. Highly recommended.

Location

Take the trail up towards Rogers corner, but break right just before you reach that route. This will deposit you on a nice little shelf approximately 30 feet up and left of the start of princely ambitions. This route shares anchors with princely ambitions. Rappel to the starting shelf is possible with a 70m rope, but you cannot rappel all the way to the ground.

Protection

Mostly bolted, but some gear is needed before the final bolt. Most will want to stick clip the first bolt.

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GregH
San Diego, CA
GregH   San Diego, CA
I see where this thing starts but how does it end? Does it join up with Princely of just keep going straight up? Aug 1, 2011
Stig .
Seattle
  5.12b
Stig .   Seattle
  5.12b
Greg, after the dyno head up and left on easy (runout-ish) ground to a bolt below a left facing corner. Go up the corner, which is rather tenuous and tricky. Bring a #1 for the pod. I feel that this is the most difficult part of the route despite the fact that I'm 5'8". It is quite different in character than the rest of the climb.

Also, I took a big whip on a #5 Micronut and am planning on going back for it, so please don't booty it anyone! Mar 13, 2016
Seanald  
FYI: there is a spooky flake just below the top L facing corner on this route that wiggles and feels like it wouldn't take much to rip off. I think it is still safe to climb but just don't yard on it. Jun 21, 2018