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Pincher

5.12b, Sport, 40 ft,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Mike Johnson
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Great Black North
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

This burly boulder problem would be a must-do classic if it were twice as long. Unfortunately the line is rather short, but the movement is excellent while it lasts, and the stone is flawless. The climbing is somewhat atypical for Shelf, with dynamic slaps, opposition moves, and large(r), sloping holds.

Use your stick clip to beat back the thorn bushes, then stick clip the first bolt. Aggressive moves lead over the initial roof to a good stance at the obvious horizontal break. Slap desparately over the slight bulge with pitiful feet to a key hidden hold. Mantle onto the slab and cruise the slight runout to the anchor.

Location

In the "Refrigerator", this is the central line that only climbs half-way up the wall (on Metolius hangers). Also the second bolted line right of Chuana Chavaria, and immediately right of the angle-iron bolts on Screamer.

Protection

4 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bird's eye view of Pincher.
[Hide Photo] Bird's eye view of Pincher.
Just above the crux of Pincher.
[Hide Photo] Just above the crux of Pincher.