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Routes in Sven Tower 3

Baby Back T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ergone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shark Attack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spinal Block T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spinal Tap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 788 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Oct 3, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Cruxy move at the transition onto a headwall just above a horizontal crack is really really fun! Another psychological crux is found stepping up over another wall 25 or so ft. above and to the right--due to exposure, but it is a well-protected move. Very thin footwork near the top probably marks the technical crux for the climb!

Location

Starts the same as the Left Rib Arete climb, but deviates to the right onto a seemingly blank face and stays exposed nearly the rest of the way to the top. Route E on the posted topo.

Protection

three bolts to the headwall. A cam at the horizontal crack before the face protects a tricky move. The rest of the climb is bolt protected.

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