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Reefer Madness

V4-, Boulder,  Avg: 3.1 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Hammond Pond > Temple Area > Temple Overhangs

Description

This is the obvious sit start on a big flake, straight up the face into the crack. From here, work your way directly over the roof via small positive holds, then to the bomber lip. I've seen it listed as V1, but even from the stand start, it feels solid. This is an excellent problem, it is worth a visit if you frequent the Alcove and want to try something new.

Location

At the Temple Overhang, this is the obvious route straight out the roof.

Protection

It has a rocky landing, so bring a pad.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andy on the sit start to the classic Reefer Madness at Hammond Pond.
[Hide Photo] Andy on the sit start to the classic Reefer Madness at Hammond Pond.
Broken finishing hold at the top.
[Hide Photo] Broken finishing hold at the top.
Elliot on Reefer Madness.
[Hide Photo] Elliot on Reefer Madness.
The tricky upper part.
[Hide Photo] The tricky upper part.
Tough start.
[Hide Photo] Tough start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Goin
Watertown, MA
[Hide Comment] Fair warning: most books printed over 5 years ago rate this at V1, classic sandbag rating for the area. Fantastic problem, terrible feet. May 16, 2016
Alex Fox
Laramie, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Very fun problem, though I think a crucial crimp broke off some years ago. Harder now. Jun 2, 2016
Chris DiLeo
Fairfield, CT
[Hide Comment] This is such a fun problem. Counter to James' comment, I'd say the feet aren't really that bad. The starting foot holds aren't great, but once you get the feel for them, they're not that bad. Once you get past the start, the feet are actually pretty good. Maybe a little tricky once you start working around the lip. Mar 6, 2017
Xi Yin
Cambridge, MA/traveling
 
[Hide Comment] Stand start: youtube.com/watch?v=q7V-bdX….
Sit start: youtube.com/watch?v=OcGfgmR… Jun 8, 2020
Elliot Gacs
 
[Hide Comment] As an add on to Alex's comment, I'm pretty sure more than one hold has broken off (based on a video of someone else climbing it). Nov 26, 2020
Dan Rogers
Newton, MA
  V5
[Hide Comment] Don't miss out on this amazing problem!

I think it's around V5 in its current state—I will revisit after I work on Hepatitis a little. Seeing Jonathan Gregg's picture from 2020 ("the tricky upper part") helps me understand how this problem could possibly be listed at this grade. That hold is broken. I just sent today, and it's significantly harder than any of the Alcove V3s and Hermit's Cave. The final move to the lip is now a big dyno off of bad holds. On the plus side, it feels awesome to stick.

You need at least two pads and preferably three for this climb. There is a lot of potential to pop off the lower part in a weird position, and the upper part puts you directly over two big rocks with the biggest move coming at the top. We found a pad out front for the bottom of the climb and two stacked pads across the rocks worked best, with at least one spotter.

You can check my tick for more beta, didn't want to spray here. Apr 20, 2023