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Routes in Scafell

Central Buttress. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Boulder V10- in nails T V10- 7C+
Swan Song E2 5c T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Peter Lockey. Sept 8th 1991
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Situated on the impressive Deep Gill Buttress .Start same as Godsite. See FRCC guide book to Scafell,Wasdale and Eskdale. An excellent climb on good rock that climbs a thin crack in the steep wall between Gobsite and Xerxes.

P1)Climb up easy ledges to a nut belay below the V-groove.45'
P2) Climb onto the steep right wall to reach a hollow flake, and make an awkward step right to reach a ledge below a left facing corner crack. Climb the corner to its top then traverse left a short distance on good holds across a very steep wall.Go straight up through the small chimney with an enclosed chockstone and move up to below an obvious steep corner .Move out left to a sloping foothold and climb the steep crack (crux).Step left and climb up to belay. 5.10b 110'
P3) Climb straight up past some blocks on a ledge,crossing the final pitch of Xerxes where it moves off left. Above the ledge/ramp climb a bulging wall and indefinate groove (thread). Go up this to another bulge and step right to a hidden crack. Follow this to the top.95' 5.9.

Location

The extensive crags of Scafell both the East Buttress and the other superb crags on the other side of Mickledore are the jewels of the Lake District.However the weather can be a bit of a problem! See FRCC rock climbing guide book to Scafell, Wasdale, Eskdale.

Protection

Standard rack few cams and stoppers.

Photos

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