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Dangling Monkey

5.12-, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: James Q. Martin, John Burcham
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Upper Beach

Description

An intimidating line when you first put your eyes on it. The Dangling Monkey is a proper roof crack that will test almost anyone who tries it. Start off with a 75' first pitch of 5.10+ crack climbing that gets you to a bolted belay below the looming roof. When ready, launch out into the steep roof crack and get your swing on! Has been done in one long pitch.

Location

Two routes left of the little tower.

Protection

Double set. Chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leah Sandvoss on the first pitch (5.10) of Swinging Monkey Phenomenon, Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ<br>
Photo by Andre Kiryanov
[Hide Photo] Leah Sandvoss on the first pitch (5.10) of Swinging Monkey Phenomenon, Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ Photo by Andre Kiryanov
James remembering how steep this thing is?
[Hide Photo] James remembering how steep this thing is?
Pitch 1 of Swinging Monkey Phenomenon.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 of Swinging Monkey Phenomenon.
James getting started up the obvious steep crack!
[Hide Photo] James getting started up the obvious steep crack!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andre K
San Diego
[Hide Comment] If you are doing pitch 1 only:
5.10, 75 ft long
Gear: double set of Blue TCU to BD#2. Nov 27, 2010
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] first pitch is pretty sandbag for 10- Actually more like 11- but good! I used a full set of dbls to #2 camalot plus 1 #3. Scoped out the upper pitch for next time: looks like dbl #4 and a #5 would be useful. I'll be back!! Dec 1, 2011
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
[Hide Comment] We only did the first pitch. Superb, 3 star pitch of continuous 5.10 with a 10+ crux the first 20 feet off the ground. Nov 18, 2016
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
 
[Hide Comment] Holy shit P2 is the Separate Reality of Sedona! Only need 1x .75, 2, & 3 for it, clean air. Best to do as one pitch, very awesome! Mar 25, 2017