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Routes in Upper Beach

Black Gold S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Co-ed Volleyball T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corona S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dangling Monkey T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doo-doo in my Tu-Tu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fame and Money T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go With The Flow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hot Pocket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Juice S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nurse Rathcet AKA Thai Phai S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pickpocket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Sky T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Burcham, James Q. Martin
Page Views: 1,295 total · 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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The DM starts off with a 75' first pitch of 5.10- climbing that gets you to below the roof. After you are all set, launch out into the steep crack and get your swing on! Now that I think about it, not sure if it has seen a ground to top anchor redpoint? Something to look into if you have the time...


Two routes left of the little tower.


Double set. Chain anchors


Holy shit P2 is the Separate Reality of Sedona! Only need 1x .75, 2, & 3 for it, clean air. Best to do as one pitch, very awesome! Mar 25, 2017
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
We only did the first pitch. Superb, 3 star pitch of continuous 5.10 with a 10+ crux the first 20 feet off the ground. Nov 18, 2016
flagstaff, AZ
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
first pitch is pretty sandbag for 10- Actually more like 11- but good! I used a full set of dbls to #2 camalot plus 1 #3. Scoped out the upper pitch for next time: looks like dbl #4 and a #5 would be useful. I'll be back!! Dec 1, 2011
Andre K
San Diego
Andre K   San Diego
If you are doing pitch 1 only:
5.10, 75 ft long
Gear: double set of Blue TCU to BD#2. Nov 27, 2010

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