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Moon Juice

5.11+, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
FA: JJ Schlick, Peter Kohl 2010
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Upper Beach

Description

Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, which for the grade, stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this steep south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.

Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Shares start with Red Sky. Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging arête, a few deep breaths I suppose, then bust out the little entrance boulder problem. Climb up past amazing features on the arete and holds out right to the last crux at the final bulge. Finish up crimpy slab to the original anchors of Red Sky.

Despite protest from Burcham, the working TR name for the line was Moon Juice, which was thought up by Seth Dyer. Sometimes a name just sticks. It’s both enigmatic and unusual. Fitting for the route as we know it today.

Location

To the left of the mini tower.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ <br>
Photo by Andre Kiryanov
[Hide Photo] Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ Photo by Andre Kiryanov
Josh working the steep crux on Moon Juice!
[Hide Photo] Josh working the steep crux on Moon Juice!
Moon Juice in red with draws hanging...
[Hide Photo] Moon Juice in red with draws hanging...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] FYI this route is misnamed "Green Juice" in the new Sedona Rocks guide. Mar 14, 2013
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Easily one of the best sport pitches of the grade in the area. Amazing features! Only downside is it doesn’t go on forever. Many thanks for this one JJ! Feb 26, 2017