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Bottleneck

5.5, Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Slides > Giant Mountain

Description

Recommended finish of the Diagonal and Bottle slides. Climbed it in September 2010, after getting off-route (intended to climb the Eagle Slide). Luckily we had a 30m rope, few slings and two large hexes. It is one pitch but I gave it a grade II, as it involves at least 2 hours of bushwacking followed by climbing a fairly steep and mossy slide.

Location

The route is located on the steep vertical wall after you finish either Bottle or Diagonal Slides. I got on it from the Diagonal - from top of the slide, bushwack straight up till you come to a vertical wall. Walk approx. 15 feet till you see the obvious vertical crack in a right-facing corner. According to "Adirondack Book" the crack is located 150 feet right from the top of the Bottle slide.

Descent: Bushwack to the top till you get on the marked trail, turn right to the summit, from where you descent via Roaring Brook Trail back to your car.

Protection

There is a piton 20 feet off the ground. Large to medium pro to a belay off the tree. Can be done in approach shoes, but rock shoes are recommended if the crack is wet (most likely) and the finish is a fairly run-out slab. 30m rope just makes it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top of the crack as you can see from the ground - the crack narrows out and you find yourself on 30 feet of unprotected slab.
[Hide Photo] Top of the crack as you can see from the ground - the crack narrows out and you find yourself on 30 feet of unprotected slab.
Bottle Slide Headwall in Winter - If I remember correctly, "Bottleneck" is a bit right of the apex of the slide.<br>
 Looks like "lota"-climbing here!
[Hide Photo] Bottle Slide Headwall in Winter - If I remember correctly, "Bottleneck" is a bit right of the apex of the slide. Looks like "lota"-climbing here!
Leading up Bottleneck.
[Hide Photo] Leading up Bottleneck.
From the top belay on a bluebird day
[Hide Photo] From the top belay on a bluebird day
The Bottleneck
[Hide Photo] The Bottleneck

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Dibbs
Lake Placid
[Hide Comment] If you decide not to climb the 5.5 rock band exit on the left side since hiking the right side is; long, slow and dangerous because of all the loose dirt on the steep slope. When hitting the trail at the top turn right to get back to Giant parking area. The trail at top of Giant is both ADK (DEC) trail # 47 and #48 ( they split later) Jul 13, 2012