All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Wonderland Valley > West Wonderland V… > The Astro Domes > South Astro Dome > South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
|Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X|
|Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X|
|Type:||Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||P1: Troy Mayr, April 1988, P2: Troy Mayr & Rob Mulligan, 1989|
|Page Views:||905 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Sep 27, 2010|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis climb is a foray into hard, crumbly edging and crimping. Despite the rather ephemeral nature of some of the rock, the climbing is quite good.
P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)
P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch. (.13a?) Legend has it that this pitch may not have ever been climbed. See comments below.
LocationThis route is located on the left side of the wall, to the right of a couple of other bolted lines (Strike It Rich, Naked Singularity and Strike A Bitch). Prickly Pear cactus is abundant at the base, whose spines occasioned at least an hour of removal efforts after pulling my rope into the cacti.
I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.
ProtectionA hodgepodge of bolts: I believe there were seven with at least four distinct types. Buttonheads and Leeper hangers, threaded 1/4", etc. This would be a good candidate for some new hardware if it were climbed more than once or twice per decade. I think the anchors had webbing which I may have backed up but probably should still be treated with suspicion.
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