Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Troy Mayr, April 1988, P2: Troy Mayr & Rob Mulligan, 1989
Page Views: 905 total, 10/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is a foray into hard, crumbly edging and crimping. Despite the rather ephemeral nature of some of the rock, the climbing is quite good.

P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)

P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch. (.13a?) Legend has it that this pitch may not have ever been climbed. See comments below.

Location

This route is located on the left side of the wall, to the right of a couple of other bolted lines (Strike It Rich, Naked Singularity and Strike A Bitch). Prickly Pear cactus is abundant at the base, whose spines occasioned at least an hour of removal efforts after pulling my rope into the cacti.

I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.

Protection

A hodgepodge of bolts: I believe there were seven with at least four distinct types. Buttonheads and Leeper hangers, threaded 1/4", etc. This would be a good candidate for some new hardware if it were climbed more than once or twice per decade. I think the anchors had webbing which I may have backed up but probably should still be treated with suspicion.

Photos

- No Photos -
dnaiscool  
 
I got on this route in '89 with Hans Florine & Dave Tidwell. Hans led both pitches, but did not finish the second pitch without that one fall in that one place. We all thought the first pitch was .12c. I based that on the hard slab climbing I'd been doing at Suicide at the time. Maybe it has eroded into an easier state, but it was fierce back then. The flakes were sooo sharp, we renamed it "Glass Shards from Monrovia". That super high step with the left on to a stack of nickles near the top of the first pitch is forever carved in my collective memory of climbs I've done. Our tips were so wounded by the first pitch, neither Dave or I wanted anything to do with the second. Apr 18, 2015
johannsolo
So Cal
johannsolo   So Cal
I just replaced the first two 1/4" bolts on the first pitch with 3/8" X 2 1/2" Hilti wedge anchors. Merciless, sharp crimping to a very thin, technical crux move around the last bolt and still another couple hard moves to get into the giant flake. Second pitch is way harder, more on that later. Mar 24, 2014
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
It's been theorized that the second pitch may never have been climbed, but I can't say for sure one way or the other. Follow the ongoing debate here on Supertopo. Feb 26, 2014
C Miller   CA  
The first pitch has 6 bolts and was orginally rated 5.12c although it's since been downgraded.

The second pitch has 7 bolts, was orignally rated 5.13a/b and called Illusions. Sep 29, 2010