Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade V
FA: ???
Page Views: 685 total · 7/month
Shared By: AJ Smith on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

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Description

A large tower/buttress coming out of the wall just to the northeast of the ice falls area. Good protection every 10-15 feet, variety of gear sizes needed. Top rope access extremely difficult/impossible. Excellent learner piece for first time leaders. Can top out by traversing the top of the tower back to the wall and climbing the sides of a very steep, scree filled gully. Climb the gully walls, not the gully itself, as it is NOT STABLE and has FATAL FALL potential.

Location

Spot the tower from the base of the road. You'll have to fight through thick tag alder and pick your way up the boulder field. Directly left of Overkill roofs. Tower to the left of Free to Roam that looks like it has excellent route potential.

Protection

Climbed with rack of Trango Flex #1-4, Metolius Masters #1,2,4, BD #2, omega nuts 1-13 and metolius hex 1-10. (obviously) did not use them all, but didn't record what was placed. 2 large white pines on route facilitate 2 stage, single rope rappels.

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