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Routes in The Crack House

Gargoyle Gardens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jug-A-Lug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mountain Mahogany T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Is Hard To Say T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snafu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stub-a-Chub S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Jim Ghiselli, and Kevin Vowles: June, 1999
Page Views: 272 total, 3/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 26, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

A fun jaunt up very featured granite, with good protection through all but the first fifteen feet or so.

Start on a flat-ish spot below the large boulder on the slope at the base of the wall, and climb up through some hard-or-impossible-to-protect terrain. Eventually you'll reach a spot where a hand-size cam will fit (eg., #2 C4). From here go straight up through to a crack and from there to a small roof.

Head up the crack on the right side of the roof to a small overhang between two blocks, the left-most of which looks rounded and vaguely puffy. Surmount the steepness and head up the crack to the chain anchors.

Location

Located in approximately the middle of Crack House, starts below the large boulder on the slope, and ascends through the crack on the right side of the left-most “pillow-looking” block about three-fourths of the way up the wall.

Protection

Cams #.5 to #4 C4 or equivalent, small through large nuts. Chain anchors.

Photos

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
The correct name for this route is "No is a Four Letter Word" and was first done in June, 1999 by Rick Thompson, Jim Ghiselli & Kevin Vowles. We rated it 5.8 *** Jun 1, 2014