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Routes in Building Blocks - East

Latter-Day Saints S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mechanic, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinner Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Technicolor S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Techno-Weenie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zip Drive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, Dean Hernandez 2004
Page Views: 156 total, 2/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 26, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

A tough, strenuous start followed by a bit of tricky side-pulling wizardry, and finally casual cruising on lovely edges to the chains.

Start up the ever-steeping base straddling the wide-but-narrowing seam and clip the first bolt from a fun position with a jug. Find a way to get up and into position for the second bolt, and then figure out the crux.

Still a bit of strenuous climbing to go: get above the crux section and then break right onto the beautiful, large reddish-brown plate. A bit of spider crawling up and then head a bit left and cruise to the chains.

Location

On the east side of Building Blocks, starts up a wide seam found behind a sickly juniper (the only juniper around the base) and the follows a shallow, rounded, left-facing flake edge. Above the seam is a reddish-brown plate with rectangular sections.

Protection

9 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
The dihedral moves are super technical and involve fierce shenanigans to avoid barn-dooring into oblivion. The upper patina section is bliss.
Hard start for 11a. Sep 27, 2011
09' guide calls it 11a but cant recall the name. FA 04 by bingham. Few very improbable moves to easier climbing. Very thought provoking. Jun 6, 2011