PRINT: Rock Climb Crystal Ball, Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma

Crystal Ball

5.12b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 85 votes
FA: John Sore
Colorado > Keystone a.k.a.… > Haus Rock

Description

On the South side of Haus Rock, start on an undercling and climb an obvious, diagonal seam up and right to hanging chains. An optional and exciting move to a jug past the chains adds a little bit of spice to the experience. Grabbing the chains to clip the anchors is bad form. There is also a direct start a few feet to the right of the traditional start which also goes at 12b but is a bit easier.

Location

This is on the South side of Haus Rock.

Protection

Fixed chains at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Laura peering into the Crystal Ball.

Word.

Connor Wall on Crystal Ball.

Sydney midway into the business on Crystal Ball.

Holly's all about that peace, y'all.

Connor Wall on Crystal Ball.

Might be an adjacent route, but this pic is sweet.

Rope on Crystal Ball.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah Gauss

Hey Pat. Hey Matt. For the record, Crystal Ball on Haus Rock is generaly considered about 12a or b. As Pat said, there is a guide on this "small" area. It is not really much of a destination just because of the size. The rock quality is decent though and it sits at about 10,000 ft. so it is cool. This is the Montezuma area described in High Country Crags. Mountain Outfitters in Breckenridge usually has a copy. This area is pretty hard to find, especially without the guide. Pat has put up a few routes since the guide was published, the best of which are the 8 and 9 on the back slabs of Haus. Jul 13, 2002

slopdog

The crystal ball is in the last quarter of the climb, not the start. What are you talking about? Sep 26, 2012

skylar drakos
Breckenridge, CO

Everyone that wants to the the 2 pitch rap for the top rope set up, please don't do any stupid shit. My friend rapped off the end during the rap.
P.s. knot your ends!!! Oct 27, 2012

Hansen Wendlandt

Preface: this was my first time touching anything in the 12 range, so my opinion may carry little weight. But still, I didn't think any of the individual moves were harder than 11b. It's just that there were 20 in a row! Jun 14, 2014

nate post
Silverthorne

5.12c

You're right, none of the moves are harder than 11b, but 20 moves in a row without a rest and it starts to feel like a 12b. By the way, it looks like we were both climbing at Lime Creek on the 4th of July. Jul 11, 2014

Nate Liles
American Safe Climbing Asso…

Rebolted in 2014. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Oct 25, 2015

Hangdog2

For the record, John Sore put up this route. He is one of the early developers of the area. Also he bolted Macho Picasso. Oct 6, 2016

Noah McKelvin
Nomad

5.12b/c

Badass route. Definitely don't clip the anchor until the very top jug. Such a cool sequence! May 7, 2017

Clay Hansen
Colorado

5.12b/c

Bring your A-game. This route doesn't quit until the anchors, and if you punt off the last jug you're in for a ride. Jun 21, 2017

John RB
Boulder, CO

I'd characterize this climb as 20 ft of 10+/11- climbing into a crux at bolt 4 for about 6 moves into the crystal ball feature. The crux is 11+ ish. Then 11- moves to the chains, but with a substantial pump. There are a few rests here, but you need the fitness to be able to use them, which I lack. Here's Craig sending it on Jun 9th... he did another lap after this as well. youtube.com/watch?v=FEr6Guq…. Jun 10, 2021

Kristoffer Schmarr
SCZ, CA

What time is this in the shade until? Jul 27, 2021

Craig Faulhaber

@Kris S, this time of year the sun will hit you in the face at the very top pretty early in the day, maybe 10am? The sun then creeps over the belay until the sun finally glances on the actual route around 12-1. Later in the day, a big tree provides some shade. Aug 17, 2021