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"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+)

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A2+ R


 Avg: 3 from 2 votes

Routes in Torres Del Paine

"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2+ R
"Waiting for godot" East Face Torre Central (750M 7b/M6) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M6 Steep Snow
Monzino route (on North Tower) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI1 Easy Snow
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2600 ft, 15 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans)
Page Views: 3,701 total · 40/month
Shared By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.

Camp at pitch 5

Base of the route

Chino Climbing 3 pitch

Felipe Cleaning 3 pitch

Base

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Pitch 8

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Bad Weather

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pitch10

Location

East Face Noth tower (Torres del Paine National Park,Chile)

Protection

All Anchors have a 3 inch bolt and pitons. At pitch 5 you can set your camp and collect water.
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Amazing! thanks for the pics! Nov 18, 2010
Dustin B
Steamboat
Dustin B   Steamboat
Yeah Francisco, nice work! Jul 10, 2011

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