"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A2+ R
Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2600 ft (788 m), 15 pitches, Grade VI |
FA: | Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans) |
Page Views: | 5,811 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010 |
Admins: | Tony Yeary |
Description
We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.
Camp at pitch 5
Base of the route
Chino Climbing 3 pitch
Felipe Cleaning 3 pitch
Base
none
none
Pitch 8
none
Bad Weather
none
none
none
none
pitch10
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.
Camp at pitch 5
Base of the route
Chino Climbing 3 pitch
Felipe Cleaning 3 pitch
Base
none
none
Pitch 8
none
Bad Weather
none
none
none
none
pitch10
2 Comments