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"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A2+ R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Torres Del Paine
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"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2+ R |
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"Waiting for godot" East Face Torre Central (750M 7b/M6) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M6 Steep Snow |
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Monzino route (on North Tower) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI1 Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2600 ft (788 m), 15 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans) |
| Page Views: | 5,811 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Tony Yeary |
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Description
We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.
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Camp at pitch 5
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Base of the route
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Chino Climbing 3 pitch
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Felipe Cleaning 3 pitch
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Base
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Pitch 8
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Bad Weather
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pitch10
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.
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