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"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+)

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A2+ R


 Avg: 3 from 2 votes

Routes in Torres Del Paine

"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2+ R
"Waiting for godot" East Face Torre Central (750M 7b/M6) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M6
Monzino route (on North Tower) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI1
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2600 ft, 15 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans)
Page Views: 3,582 total, 41/month
Shared By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.






























Location

East Face Noth tower (Torres del Paine National Park,Chile)

Protection

All Anchors have a 3 inch bolt and pitons. At pitch 5 you can set your camp and collect water.
Dustin B
Steamboat
Dustin B   Steamboat
Yeah Francisco, nice work! Jul 10, 2011
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Amazing! thanks for the pics! Nov 18, 2010