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Routes in Twin Gate

Blood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climbing School S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Fei Ji (Big Airplane) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Da Pi Gu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smokin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ta Ma De (aka Xiao Fei Ji) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Three Point Five S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Xin Jiang Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Ken and Karen '98, P2: Paul Collis, Alex Xi Tang '03
Page Views: 232 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 23, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A devilish crux near the beginning of pitch one leads to excellent, balancy, varied climbing above. Be careful when working the beginning of this route, the fall is kind of sketchy. You need an alert belayer and climber.

P1- The climb goes up the left side of the cave entrance, opposite Da Fei Ji. The crux is basically getting off of the big ledge and established up above the next bolt. Some pretty sneaky beta makes a few moves easier, but there still a bit of thugging required. The upper route is still full value. You can top out the first pitch either straight up or to the left, same grade.

P2- continue straight up from the first belay, over the overhang for another 8 to 10 meters. Watch for some loose rock here (and all of Twin Gates upper pitches).

Location

The obvious, larger 'gate' of Twin Gates bosts two routes that frame either side. THis is the left of the two -- Da Fei Ji is on the right and is perhaps the signature route of the area. Thought rated the same, this route definitely has a harder crux.

Protection

Bolts to fixed chain anchors. Easy to top rope.

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