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Abram Arete

5.10, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 12 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: E. Abram and F. Gombocz
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Sella Group > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes

Description

I think the biggest and best of the south facing Ciavazes routes is the Abram Arête. It certainly follows the most prominent feature on the wall. Short approach, moderately good rock and quick descent. In the sun!

Location

Can't miss it. East side of the Ciavazes wall. The steep and exposed ridge or arête. Descend by walking west along the Chamois Terrace trail and down climb (could rap some short spots) down and back to the road.

Protection

A few nuts, slings, etc. Mostly fixed 'crap'.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The approach to the Abram Arete and lower half of the ridge.<br>
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Typical Sella Pass traffic - 20 or so Lamborghini's in a row.
[Hide Photo] The approach to the Abram Arete and lower half of the ridge. Typical Sella Pass traffic - 20 or so Lamborghini's in a row.
The descent ledge
[Hide Photo] The descent ledge
Getting into the business
[Hide Photo] Getting into the business
Going up the first pitch. Head up and right towards the left facing corner/roof feature
[Hide Photo] Going up the first pitch. Head up and right towards the left facing corner/roof feature
A good picture of Abrams Arete.  Prominent and Classic line!
[Hide Photo] A good picture of Abrams Arete. Prominent and Classic line!
Laurel A. In the upper half of the route.
[Hide Photo] Laurel A. In the upper half of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Manny Rangel
PAYSON
  5.10 R
[Hide Comment] Like he said the protection was crap but what are you gonna do. The runouts were long but on generally good rock, just stay on the grey rock.

We brought cams and used them as often as we could. Top pitches were not easy to discern but we wandered around looking for pitons and it worked. Sep 9, 2013
Mike Climberson
Earth
 
[Hide Comment] This route is a mega classic. I don't understand how anyone can not rate this thing 4/4 stars. Sure there are run outs and some loose rock, but it's an alpine climb. Unless you're climbing in Tuolumne, where do you expect to find perfect rock? There are plenty of slings, and the run outs are on easy terrain. Anyway, the exposure on this climb is killer, the approach is easy, and the descent is fairly mellow. Get on this route! Jun 21, 2024