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Routes in George

Another for the Road S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hello McFly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Call T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lounge Lizards P1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lounge Lizards Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 598 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Sep 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A long, wide adventure on the far left side of George. From the belay atop the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, head left and then up to a steep hand and fist crack. Rest atop the steep part before enduring unpleasant offwidth climbing to the top.

There's some loose stuff on the lower half of the pitch, so climb gingerly.

Location

You can either scramble up from the left to the Lounge Lizards pitch 1 belay or climb Lounge Lizards or George Direct. It's the next climbable crack system to the left of Lounge Lizards pitch 2.

Protection

Singles of cams from hands to #6. Maybe a finger-sized piece.

Photos

Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
 
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
 
This one's tougher than it looks and requires some thought at the crux.

There's a giant flake in the middle of the climb that has what feels like a crucial hold, but the flake is really hollow and might come off if a heavier person put all their weight on it, which would probably result in rope cutting, shin breaking disaster, so be careful. Sep 28, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Sweet. I was actually going to ask you about that line! Does it have a name? It's on the list for the immediate future. Sep 23, 2010
There's another 5.6 about 5 feet to the left of this one from the early 70's. Pretty fun, used to have an old piton on it. Probably still there. Just telling you this, so you have another route to do! Sep 23, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This is old school 5.7. It's pretty hard, significantly harder than Bloody Mary. The rock at the first steep section isn't very good and didn't make for very inspiring placements. I didn't take a #6 with me on the pitch but it would have been great to have at the top. It was worth doing the route once, but I probably won't be back. We rappelled down with a single 70m rope. I think a 60 would be cutting it pretty close, though you could rappel down from the top of the route to the belay of the second pitch of Lounge Lizards. Sep 23, 2010