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Routes in Gold Star Canyon

Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,080 total · 12/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Sep 22, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a nice, moderate, afternoon outing on the Bottle Top Tower, pretty cruiser and solid. It is definitely gumby-frendly, (taken with a grain of salt - of course - as all Momument routes should be).

Getting to the base is probably the crux. Mountaineer up the slabs from the Southeast wandering through a line that you have eyeballed up from the bench, thread you way up to the notch between the tower and the land form. You are now at the base of a sweet, unseen hand crack that takes you to the top.

P1: Climb the hand crack right of the chossy chimney for a hundred feet or so. Taking care not to knock one of the huge blocks down as you navigate the overhanging capstone chimney, which is how this route got its name (5.9).

Sweet summit.

Rap from good anchors.

Location

Bottle Top Tower is the tower marking the entrance to Goldstar Canyon. I can't remember if we needed two ropes to get down or not. Better bring an extra untill someone says otherwise.

Protection

Singles Friends #0.5 - #4. Single Camalots #0.5 - #4. Small to large nuts / medium - large hexes / long runners.

Photos

Really cool adventure to the top of Bottle Top. I think it's funny the route description doesn't seem to mention the 15'-20' of "off-width" in the middle of the so-called "hand crack" :) Yes, there is a hand crack, but only probably 30% of the whole 80' or so to the top is an actual "hand crack". Nevertheless, a really fun, varied summit pitch and definitely a 5.9+ rating for the "off-width portion" and pulling the bulge roof out of the"off-width". Nov 23, 2015
"Handcrack." Nice. Nov 22, 2015
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
  5.9+
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
  5.9+
Great route, fun tower to do in a couple hours. The crux is after you summit, trying to open the register. The View makes it 3 stars. May 31, 2014
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
A single 60 m works fine for getting down. The top was a little unnerving with all the huge blocks decaying away, but the climbing was pretty fun.. Oct 20, 2010