Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,964 total · 30/month
Shared By: jim-c on Sep 22, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Fun climb. Lots of crimps and thin ledges to start. Nice big jugs higher up. Footing is tougher - hard to smear due to the rock being so weathered and smooth. Good route to throw in some finger and fist jams, heel hooks and the like. You can also climb to the roof area, traverse left and play around on the roof. It's a fun one to top out on.


Route is at Faints Roof area. Toss ropes over the roof, go down and around the trail to the left and back right to reach the belay area. Start to the right of the roof. Climb through overhangs to the right of the roof, up the face to the trees and finish on roof.


Good trees at the top for anchoring topropes. They are a good distance from the edge, so bring long gear.
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
starts off with 3 successive roofs, each harder than the last, then an easy romp to the top. i thought it was a significant step up from black crack. Sep 29, 2015
I've lead the first roof and would agree strongly with the PG13 rating. I also found this route harder then Black Crack. Mar 13, 2016
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
Unlike Andrew and NA8 above, I found this climb to be less sustained and less pumpy than Black Crack. But Black Crack is a safer climb than this one for practicing falls on gear. Ounce of Perception and Black Crack are both much longer than Faints Roof, and therefore more enjoyable in my opinion.

I found the crux to be getting to the stance directly below the first roof, which might explain the PG13 comments from others. But once you're directly under the first roof, it is easy to protect well w/a yellow #2 cam (BD C4) under/pointing up into the roof and it is safe if you're solid at the grade. The feet are admittedly not great and a fall above gear would be bad at the first roof (and maybe even second roof). For the second roof, use a RH undercling to check out holds above the roof, then plug a #0.75 into a vertical slot above the roof, and to pull the roof, find a RH pinch/sidepull above the roof (which can be seen in the photo by Josh S titled "Standing on the first roof, working on the second roof of Ounce of Perception"). The third/final roof is at the very top and about 5 feet LEFT of the notch where people commonly place the extension from a top anchor (use static rope on a tree and/or boulder). The last roof is fun and you might surprise hikers as you top out, but if you plan to lower off a gear anchor that's been extended below the notch, you will have to be comfortable downclimbing an overhang into the notch before you can say "take" and weigh the extended anchor. Sep 26, 2016
Zach Christensen
Baltimore, MD
Zach Christensen   Baltimore, MD
I agree with FanZ, the crux for me was getting into position under the first roof, an awkward move left on a crimp and an undercling pocket, the holds load as you move out onto them but do not feel good until you've already committed, pulling the roof(s) was straight forward... also Black crack is much more sustained and pumpy but doesn't have as difficult of a crux, i found black crack harder over all but safer for lead by far Mar 26, 2017