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From Russia With Love -(Central Slab)
5.10a, Trad, 70 ft,
Avg: 2.1 from 12 votes
Maine > Acadia National… > The Precipice aka The South Wall
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
For details visit:
Climb the crack in the corner. Exit left and climb the crack up left.
This climb is on the
; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and
and continue right.
Up to the left of Recollections of Pacifica, around the arete and on a small ledge below a crack in the corner.
Walk right on the ledge to bolts to rap off.
Regular rack. Gear anchor.
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Nathan Kilroy climbing the crack near the top of "From Russia With Love"
Jeremiah prepares to head up From Russia With Love
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The guidebook calls this route a little contrived, and it is. The lower corner is probably the crux, although the upper corner has a thin move right at the top (
much easier if you just reach out to the jugs on the left). Instead of building a gear anchor, just put in a directional at the top of the route and then walk 20 feet right and belay off the Recollections of Pacifica/Wafer Step bolts--you'll have to rap from them anyway.
Oct 7, 2011
It seems really hard to top out just using the crack - is this even possible? I used thin edges to the left once the crack became unusable 10" above the piton.
Aug 13, 2017