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Routes in Gully Wall

Actual Porn Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beetle Juice S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Booty and the Hoe Fish S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Arete T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bunny Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bunny Hop S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dolní Žleb S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Former Rock Star S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impatience S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manny the Woolly Mammoth S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manny's Lament S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No More Mr Nice Guy S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Dwarf S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sid the Sloth S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Peter Gernassnig & Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 92 total, 1/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Sep 21, 2010 with updates
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

Climb up right facing corner 5.10b to a slab and establish yourself in high shallow corner [crux]. Grab the arete on the left and high step above the last bolt.
An easy 5.8 variation finish climbs out left in another right facing corner.

Location

Right wall inside the gully

Protection

5 bolts and top anchors
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
 
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
 
For over 15 years it was thought that the direct finish was a variation to the route. This is incorrect, that's exactly how the original line went. The variation is the easy dihedral to the left, off route in my opinion. Sep 23, 2013