Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Chimneys of Treasure
|Donkey Ear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Roger's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,574 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Colter on Sep 20, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA super adventureous alpine route! The climbing is moderate but exposed! It is probably 5.8 climbing, but the loose rocks and the exposure sure makes it a lot headier. Don't get me wrong tho, a lot of the rock is pretty good. All the route needs is a good cleaning. The route climbs out of a chasm between the largest tower and Treasure Mountain, into a ramp, into a dihedral.
The belay ledge is on top of the dihedral. We had a 70m rope and had a bit extra to spare when we got to the belay. A 60m should make it but not a 50m. The gear the the belay isn't amazing. We ended up finding a couple pieces and slinging a chockstone. From here, the route continues up broken rock with nice, thin cracks, but a lot of this rock consists of huge, loose blocks, be careful here. There are actually two OLD pegs barely worth clipping, and then another, better peg just as you are about to crest the wall. Carefully construct a belay once you've made it to the top. There are looooooose rocks everywhere, and it takes lots of care not to knock rocks onto the second below you. Be extra careful of the rope running through the rocks.
We left an anchor to rappel off on the south side of the chimney. Two pitons and a tricam, equalized with green webbing and a locker. We rapped with a 70m, but a 60m tag line, and barely got to the bottom. Quite the rappel!