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Routes in The Suzuki Boulder

Grand Piano, The V9- 7C
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Type: Boulder, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Maybe me?
Page Views: 742 total · 8/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I don't know if this has been done before, there are plenty of climbers in Estes more than capable of doing it, but I have never heard of anyone even trying it, so it might be an F.A.. or not.

Regardless this is one of the best bouldering traverses around, and at 53 moves with nary a shake out before a no-hands stance, and 80 moves total afterwards, it is a great endurance workout/project. The movement is unique, varied, and memorable. This is an excellent traverse! I'm guessing low V9? Feels harder than any V7 or V8 traverse I have ever done.

Location

Basically this is a traverse of all four sides of the Suzuki Boulder. Start with "The Piano" a lowball sloper traverse on the north side that is probably V7 by itself. Once on the northwest arete, above the sit-start handcrack, reach right, grab an undercling, and follow a line of crimps at about eight feet (one of which is a little fragile) straight right to get established on the southwest arete problem. Reverse the middle of this problem, make a cruxy throw right into an undercling, and finish out the V5 traverse of the south face (with an insane pump). Towards the end one can cop a full recovery no-hands rest at a cramped stance, either top out on the south face; or for extra value continue straight right on small crimps to a large flake and turn the corner to follow the sloping lip of the east face and top out on the descent slab. This final section after the no-hands stance is around V4 and with a full recovery before doing it does not really up the difficulty than if one were to simply top out on the south face.

Protection

Pads on the rocks below the west face section are essential.

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