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Laugh the Past Away
5.11c,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
FA: Brian Mullins, Charles Walters
Colorado
> Canon City
> Shelf Rd
> Great Black North
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
Per
Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Description
This is essentially a bolted finger crack. The odd pocket or edge is useful, but 75% of the time one or both hands will be in the crack. The rock is essentially flawless, aside from the obvious splitter, and this route is taller than most 5.11s at this cliff. Unfortunately a gnarly cactus growing out of the crack detracts a bit around the 2nd bolt.
Easy moves lead to the cactus and careful route finding to reach a good ledge. The crux hits around the fourth bolt as the crack peters to a seam.
Location
At the far left end of the GBN, 25 feet right of DESOTS.
Protection
~5 Bolts to 2 BA. The bolts are quite spaced at the start. Take care getting to the 2nd and 3rd bolts.