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Routes in The Frigate

Bowspirit T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Can Can T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Code of the Sea TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Dutchman T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frigate "walk off" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Galleass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jasek's Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jib, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pooper, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stern, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed route 20 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 376 total, 4/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Delicate and burly at the same time. The crux is exactly where you think it will be, the face above has good, sharp horizontals, and then there is a final throw to the top.

I've seen two different strategies used successfully: ease up the flare, and power layback.

Location

At the East end of the Frigate, facing the Lake, a flared slot through an overhang leads to a slabby face.

Protection

Good gear through the crux, then nothing on the face above (5.8-5.6). Is there gear in the last ledge before the final crux?

For setting a TR, you can either solo up the chimney (4th class from the South), or jump down across the gaps from the Frigate walk-up. Great gear under the block and one big cam across the chimney makes a strong, easy, stable anchor.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.10 R
Tradiban  
  5.10 R
Not too fun. Squeeze chimney tactics work best in the crux. There is gear in the final horizontal but a fall from the final throw to the top would be ugly. I decided to pass on the lead.

Per Sven this ends on the "southeast" corner or in layman's terms, the "left" corner of the formation. Oct 7, 2011