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Gimp Warfare
5.8 A3,
Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade VI,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Paul Gagner, Jeremy Aslaksen - March-August 29th, 2010
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Fisher Towers
> Titan
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Gimp Warfare starts 100' to the right of World's End on the East face of the Titan.
Location
The route starts in the obvious crack going up the right side on the prominent pillar.
Protection
Spectres x 2
#1 Peckers x 15
#2 Peckers x 15
#3 Peckers x 15
Angles 1/2 and 5/8 x 2
1 set of Zs
2 sets cams from Aliens/TCUs to # 3 x 2
1 set cams 3.5 to 5
All belays have hangers.
Rap the route.
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Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT