Hombres del Panuelo Rojo
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Sport, Aid, 1800 ft, 17 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||A. Aldama, C. Herrera, J.M. Aldama, C. Smith|
|Page Views:||1,490 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Calvin Smith on Sep 18, 2010|
|Admins:||Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
DescriptionThe crux of the climb can be found between the 10th and 11th pitches, since this section is on vertical to overhanging rock that eventually traverses a large roof. The best thing about the climb is that it is pretty well protected with 10mm. expansion bolts wherever there are no natural features (cracks) for protection. The rock quality, especially on the first ascent was pretty dicey at times, but the first ascentionists managed to pull off many of the large, loose blocks that were found on the wall.
There have been at least three attempts at a second ascent since the route was established in December and January of 2006/07. None of these parties have committed to continuing on after the 8th pitch since there is no easy retreat from this point on, due to the overhanging aspect of the rock. A top out on the route requires a 2-3 hour hike to a small village above the canyon, in order to reach the nearest road. For a more detailed account of the 14-day first ascent, refer to the article and topos published in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.