Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 1800 ft, 17 pitches, Grade V
FA: A. Aldama, C. Herrera, J.M. Aldama, C. Smith
Page Views: 1,560 total · 16/month
Shared By: Calvin Smith on Sep 18, 2010
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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The crux of the climb can be found between the 10th and 11th pitches, since this section is on vertical to overhanging rock that eventually traverses a large roof. The best thing about the climb is that it is pretty well protected with 10mm. expansion bolts wherever there are no natural features (cracks) for protection. The rock quality, especially on the first ascent was pretty dicey at times, but the first ascentionists managed to pull off many of the large, loose blocks that were found on the wall.
There have been at least three attempts at a second ascent since the route was established in December and January of 2006/07. None of these parties have committed to continuing on after the 8th pitch since there is no easy retreat from this point on, due to the overhanging aspect of the rock. A top out on the route requires a 2-3 hour hike to a small village above the canyon, in order to reach the nearest road. For a more detailed account of the 14-day first ascent, refer to the article and topos published in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.


This route is located within the first quarter of the canyon, at a point where the walls come together to form the silhouette used in the official state emblem. A few of the boat drivers from the launch at Cahuare know where the trail begins. The trail is not well marked, therefore the best way to find it and stay on it, is to talk one of the first ascentionists into bushwhacking with you to the base of the climb! (contact: grupoescala@yahoo.com) The approach itself takes anywhere from one to three hours of strenuous, uphill hiking through boulders and scree, in order to reach the base of the climb. As mentioned above, unless you want to fix the entire route with 1,800 feet of rope as you climb, the only way to get down afterwards is to hike to the nearest village in order to catch a ride back to civilization.


One hundred and eight, 8mm expansion bolts and hangers were placed on lead for upwards progression during the first ascent of the route. Another thirty-one, mostly stainless steel expansion bolts and hangers, were used to establish anchors at the end of each pitch. We also used a wide range of stoppers, hexes, and camming devices to protect in the vertical and horizontal cracks located sparsely throughout the route. Finally, we used a variety of hooks, especially in the roof section of the climb.