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Routes in Outer Outlet

A Certain Shade of Green S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Barry McCochiner's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conn Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn Diagonal Variation, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gun Has No Trigger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
I Want Out T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Iron Lingerie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Jugs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living @ 1% T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Nick of Time T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Passport to The Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rain Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scary Larry T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Stainless Steel Shield T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
True to Form T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 912 total, 10/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Sep 16, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts in the chimney to the left of the face that the original route starts on. Start in the chimney with two variations. (1) climb up the chimney and through to the south side of the outer outlet. Turn the corner and climb an offwidth chimney or a chimney with a layback crack in the left wall to get below a chockstone. Go under the chockstone through a "worm hole" like found on spire 4, but much bigger. Belay from the ledge 5 meters above the stone. (2) From the ground, climb up the chimney and head slightly right to gain the top ledges of the chimney on the right. Belay from here.
Pitch two starts with a Traverse right around the corner (exposure starts) to gain the entire Conn traverse ledge. This is the crux of the route. Gain the ledge and "climb" to the two bolt belay that it the top of pitch one of the original route. Expect some rope drag and one suspect fixed wire on the pitch. Climb pitch two of the original route as pitch three of the variation. You can make it to 5 meters below the top of the outer outlet with a 60M rope from the two bolt belay, even climbing the 5.8 hand crack on the right wall of the third pitch of the original route, to make a really good finish!

Location

Start in the chimney left and downhill 30 meters from the start of the original route.

Protection

Rack to a #4 C4. no doubles needed. Bring long slings for pitch three, and a long sleeve shirt and pants for pitch two!

Photos

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Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
 
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
 
Two ropes were found on the summit of Conn Diagonal. For others new to the area, the two bolt hangers that you see after the finger crack that i believe is 5.8 are not rappel anchors. There are nice rap anchors after doing a little step across on the summit. I would not recommend putting ropes through the hangers!!! If these are your ropes please contact me at 6059399698 by text to identify them. Aug 31, 2015