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Routes in 7.3 - Horse Rampart

AAA TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Archery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Between the Cheeks TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Debauchery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse with No Name T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horse, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lechery T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Dick T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monarch T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlooked Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peanut Butter T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plethora T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primak's Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pullman Car T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roger's Roof T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scuz TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Teetering Tower TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Treachery T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Apia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wolf Dog T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 455 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 15, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Un-named in the guide this is a good warm up for access to the top to set up TR. Some loose blocks to contend with.

Location

Right facing corner with fractured rock at the top left of Via Apia.

Protection

Trad.

Photos

Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
  5.5 PG13
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
  5.5 PG13
So I actually enjoyed this route a lot more than the ratings would suggest. However, there is basically no pro for the top 20’ or so. Easy climbing on jugs, but some felt loose. Tread carefully - pretty sure there’s decking potential if you were to blow the top out. Jun 24, 2018
Tradiban
  5.5
Tradiban  
  5.5
Namesake of this route:

youtu.be/kdEPnGUPc5s

Trivia: The drummer in this band is also known for replacing Stuttering John on the Howard Stern show. Jun 24, 2018
Andy Summers
Madison, WI
 
Andy Summers   Madison, WI
 
I thought this was a great route, and might have even given it 4 stars if the top half were a little less crumbly. The moves were fun, there were great stances for gear and I was able to get gear at every point that I wanted it (including the top). A #4 is useful, but 2 #3s would work too.

FWIW, I knocked around the top a bunch and except for one jug that had some crumbly stones on it, everything felt solid enough.

e; Should have clicked the YouTube link before rating. Anything named after a Death song is 4 stars in my book. Aug 19, 2018

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