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The Will To Power
5.11c R,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 11
votes
FA: Andrew Barry, Mike Artz, and Stanley Todd 1986
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Beauty Mountain
> 5) Burning Buttress
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The first section of this climb is a very fun, well protected corner. Stems, laybacks, and the occasional use of the arete on the right will get you to the top of the corner. Clip a bolt and pull up and left (first crux) to a weird rest stance. From here commit to a relatively large runout on 5.10- climbing just left of the arete. At the top of the runout there is a jug to place bomber gear from. Then move up and left past big moves (second crux) to a hidden letter box slot. Plug a final piece of gear and make a couple more large moves between good holds and you will be at the anchor.
Location
Located a few hundred feet around the corner to the right of burning calves. Its the route just left of Chorus line
Protection
The opening corner takes small stoppers really well. Before the runout there is a 1/2" bolt. After the runout a .75 camalot is totally bomber but there is plenty of other stuff available. Make sure you save a yellow tcu or equivalent for the final letter box slot. Bolted anchor.
[Hide Photo] The Will to Power 5.11c Trade climbs the corner to a lone bolt high on the face.