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Orthanc

5.8-, Sport, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 1.4 from 43 votes
FA: John Hooper
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth

Description

Low angle slab climb on the face of the prominent pinnacle in the Middle Earth area. Fairly sustained climbing with the single bolt being plenty of protection for the short face.

Location

Pinnacle lies above the "Out on a whim" climb and beneath the Middle Earth Canyon area.

Protection

1 bolt. Bolted anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A different perspective of Orthanc.
[Hide Photo] A different perspective of Orthanc.
Weird spot to belay but we figured it out.
[Hide Photo] Weird spot to belay but we figured it out.
Middle Finger, front and center. Orthanc to the right.
[Hide Photo] Middle Finger, front and center. Orthanc to the right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Use this to set a TR on the Middle Finger (5.10). That will up the stars on your experience. Sep 17, 2010
Perchalot chin
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] No bolts on top. (except 2 on the face for middle finger 5.10, but these are on another plane) Apr 14, 2013
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This thing isn't even in highball range. Just go for it with a spotter and use it as low risk down climb practice. Also, I don't think it's 20ft. Probably closer to 12ft-15ft. Nov 22, 2016
[Hide Comment] Hey, just a PSA for everyone:
For routes with anchors on the ledge below the Middle Finger/ Orthnac boulder in the right side of middle earth, take note that you can go around and access the anchors from the side closest to the hill, the other side is especially perilous. On the fifteenth of June, my dad attempted to traverse the right side of the boulder. There is a fairly exposed step with your right hand on a pinch and your left hand on a small crimp. For some unknown reason, my dad fell about thirty feet to the base of the cliff, broke his right clavicle and nine ribs, both his lungs collapsed, and he burst his pulmonary artery, causing internal bleeding. He was airlifted our to sharps memorial hospital and is currently still in a coma, and it’s still hit or miss if he’s gonna live. Stay safe out there guys, and Always check your knot.


Update- He's back to climbing, but I leave him in the dust at altitude Jun 17, 2019
Jake Weeks
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Glad to hear that your dad recovered, Connor. And a good reminder for everyone to stay safe and respect the exposed scrambles. Feb 12, 2021