[Hide Comment] This is a pretty cool climb. At first glance it looks quite easy, but it's more technical than it looks. You certainly need to be confident with hand and foot jams. For me the crux was about 3/4 of the way up, the crack flares, there's not much for the feet, and what you hope to be bomber horizontals above are rather rounded. To me, solid 5.8. Protects well.
The rap from the top anchor is about 85 feet. Aug 9, 2011

[Hide Comment] Lots and lots of jams with a few fists every so often and high feet. There are many stances for placing high-reach pro. A BD #4 comes into play lower down, and the wide section higher up will use up a .5 or .75 in a slot if you only have one #4. Descend on rap rings at top next to good-looking manzanita, then run up Mole's Corner just to the right for extra fun. Then walk a little down for Nova Express, and then fifteen feet more for Farewell to Arms. Ah, Snowshed. Jul 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] Really fun climb and a solid warm-up route. The move in the middle of the climb where most people (taller guys) seemed to mantel onto their left leg form the right side of the crack, I approached from the left side of the crack and jammed straight in. Felt more secure that way. Aug 15, 2017

[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb and felt solid for 5.8. Definitely lots of foot and hand jams, with the occasional fist jam. I agree with BruceB, the crux is about 3/4 of the way up where the crack starts to flare a bit. The first crux you can just jam through and the second I approached from the right side and then manteled onto my left leg. Hold's aren't great above, but they are good enough. Jun 11, 2018

[Hide Comment] Great warm up, cool position and view, found this to be quite the adventure. Standard rack to #4 was sufficient, yellow and red c3's can be useful as well. Jul 23, 2018

[Hide Comment] Thanks for the new anchor and moving it down, the old anchor spot was terrible. Aug 15, 2022