Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,462 total · 15/month
Shared By: Eric Schnepel on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Good climb with a mix of power and balance. Cruxes around the 4th bolt. Eases considerably after a no-hands-rest ledge around the 6th bolt.

Location

Starts on some funny looking rock a few feet to the right of Masterpiece Theater.

Protection

Sport. 12 draws

Photos

Matt Pennock
Portland, OR
 
Matt Pennock   Portland, OR
 
Really fun, unique climb. Might be a 5.12a if it weren't for the no-hands rest.
Anchors seem a little off to the right, since they share with another route. Apr 24, 2011
Adam Therneau
  5.11b
Adam Therneau  
  5.11b
I'm not sure if this one fit me better than Masterpiece Theater, but this feels a couple letter grades easier. Whatever it is, the climbing is fantastic. Never pulled a combo mantle/kneebar move before this one! Nov 1, 2011
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.11c
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.11c
A fun and powerful route. I didn't feel any one move felt any harder then 5.11b, but the sustained crux section definitely bumped the grade to a solid 5.11c. Make sure to tape up for two finger stack pocket at the start of the crux. Its sharp! I typically skip the crux bolt, and the bolt at the start of the overhang, as they really aren't needed IMO. Bolted really close together during that section. Oct 1, 2014
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.11c
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.11c
what is the established finish for this route? seems like one can either go to the Screaming for Change anchors, or the masterpiece ones. I went to the Screaming ones and it made sense for cleaning the route. Jun 11, 2015
another Chad
5.11c
another Chad  
5.11c
Brunt, either way works. It seems that most people stop at the Screaming For Change anchor.

Chad Jun 12, 2015
Pumped out HARD because I did not find that no hands rest. (I assume it involves that big ledge, but I could not find a good rest position there?) Happy that I still managed to stick it out, will definitely climb again! Sep 30, 2018