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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,261 total, 14/month
Shared By: Eric Schnepel on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Good climb with a mix of power and balance. Cruxes around the 4th bolt. Eases considerably after a no-hands-rest ledge around the 6th bolt.

Location

Starts on some funny looking rock a few feet to the right of Masterpiece Theater.

Protection

Sport. 12 draws

Photos

another Chad
5.11c
another Chad  
5.11c
Brunt, either way works. It seems that most people stop at the Screaming For Change anchor.

Chad Jun 12, 2015
Brunt Tornton
NH
  5.11c/d
Brunt Tornton   NH
  5.11c/d
what is the established finish for this route? seems like one can either go to the Screaming for Change anchors, or the masterpiece ones. I went to the Screaming ones and it made sense for cleaning the route. Jun 11, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11c
A fun and powerful route. I didn't feel any one move felt any harder then 5.11b, but the sustained crux section definitely bumped the grade to a solid 5.11c. Make sure to tape up for two finger stack pocket at the start of the crux. Its sharp! I typically skip the crux bolt, and the bolt at the start of the overhang, as they really aren't needed IMO. Bolted really close together during that section. Oct 1, 2014
Adam Therneau
  5.11b
Adam Therneau  
  5.11b
I'm not sure if this one fit me better than Masterpiece Theater, but this feels a couple letter grades easier. Whatever it is, the climbing is fantastic. Never pulled a combo mantle/kneebar move before this one! Nov 1, 2011
Matt Pennock
Portland, OR
 
Matt Pennock   Portland, OR
 
Really fun, unique climb. Might be a 5.12a if it weren't for the no-hands rest.
Anchors seem a little off to the right, since they share with another route. Apr 24, 2011