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Jamminy Crackit

5.11-, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
FA: Skip Harper, et al.
Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Blair (overview) > Upper Blair > John's Tower

Description

This is a great route that doesn't see much traffic. For the grade at Vedauwoo, it is very friendly.

JC is located on the east end/buttress of John's Tower. This beautiful crack line navigates through steep territory. The line is obvious, with a steep, twin crack start with big hands. This transitions to thin hands with some good hand pods in steep, leaning bulge. This narrows down to fingers and then you pull a nice, fun roof that fortunately gives you a lot to work with.

Pull onto a ledge and totally switch gears. The book says that there are bolts (i.e. plural) on the face above you, but there was only one. You can tinker in some small, not so great stoppers, but be careful as the crux is encountered before you clip the bolt about 10 feet off the ledge. It is really good face climbing here but somewhat serious. There is a bolted anchor not too far above.

From the ledge, supposedly there is a bolted variation that goes out left (I didn't see it). Also, you can do a classic, Vedauwoo-looking crack traverse to the right and then climb an overhanging corner to escape. The traverse looks pretty wild, but it has perfect gear.

Location

If approaching John's Tower from north, it is on the far left (east) side. You can't miss it - it is an overhanging crack/corner that is begging to be climbed.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot, maybe a couple extra in the thin hands to hands range. It has a bolted anchor at top. We had a 70m, which had plenty left over. Be careful though as the ground kind of slopes/ledges down away from the base.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jamminy Crackit.
[Hide Photo] Jamminy Crackit.
Slava toproping Jamminy Crackit.
[Hide Photo] Slava toproping Jamminy Crackit.
The rather disquieting start to 'Jamminy Crackit'.  Slightly blurred out, but you get the idea.  A headless Harper on the route.
[Hide Photo] The rather disquieting start to 'Jamminy Crackit'. Slightly blurred out, but you get the idea. A headless Harper on the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Cameron
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, but about 1000 times easier than Burning Man, which is somehow rated easier. Aug 12, 2013
slim

  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Definitely, although they are quite different. Aug 12, 2013
[Hide Comment] One thousand times easier than Burning Man? While possibly 'somewhat' comparable in difficulty, 'Jamminy' offers far more challenge than offwidth. At any rate, the bolts on the top face were there. I put them in. Apparently there's been some rather surreptitious chopping going on. I apologize for this and will get up there and replace them. In the meantime, please follow the sensible comments above by Slim. Thanks for letting us know. Nov 6, 2014
thomas.w
Denver, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] This is a stellar climb and definitely worth getting on.... We followed it up with Spectreman, and the grade felt fine in comparison. Jun 23, 2015
Greg Cameron
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] My last comment was geared more toward the fact that Burning Man is definitely underrated, although I would stick by my 5.10d rating for this one.

I will say this. This is one of my favorite climbs at Vedauwoo. Mar 23, 2017
A-W
[Hide Comment] Really fun, athletic hands. Take care with the last couple of pieces you place at the final bulge before the ledge... you can get some pretty awful rope drag for the slab finish. All bolts were there and seemed fine. Metolius fat rap hangers on top. Aug 28, 2017
Andrew McLean
Boulder CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Amazing line! Doubles from #0.3-#2, 1 #3, 1 #4, and a set of offset nuts felt good. The face moves to get to the bolt from the ledge are a bit spicy, as you're going to hit the ledge if you come off before the clip. A #4 (Black) DMM Offset Aluminum placed above the ledge should keep you from tumbling all way down the lower face, or better yet don't fall. Extending the gear at the bulge before the ledge was key. Jul 22, 2018
Wade Griffith
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Skip sure gets offended when somebody would insinuate a route he climbed was easy. I agree with Greg though, since I know Skip has not climbed Burning Man. Sep 8, 2019
B K
Laramie, WY
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] It's worth bringing 2 double length slings to extend the anchor if you intend to toprope without debilitating drag. Also, a large nut can be placed at the last bulge to help keep the rope out of the crack. Otherwise, there is a pretty distinct pinch point and the drag sucks.

Kelman describes the left bolt line up top as 10c (2 bolts), the middle line 10b (1 bolt, I think), and the right crack traverse 5.9 (gear). I didn't see the middle option and went left. Didn't feel the need for additional protection. Felt more like 5.9+ face but with some ledge fall potential and some drag. You might want a nut or two if going the middle way, because the bolt is a bit higher off the ledge. Jun 5, 2020
Greg Cameron
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I was perusing my comments and feel that I had unnecessarily demeaned the rating of this climb. I am sorry. First of all, I have always loved it. It is one of my favorite climbs at Vedauwoo, in part because I have always been able to do it. On the other hand, Burning Man is a nemesis for me. I'm a good OW climber, but I have not been able to lead Burning Man (a pox to you!). So, after leading this in bad style on Sunday and knowing some good climbers who struggle on this climb, I would give this a 5.11a rating (and Burning Man 5.11c). Jul 22, 2020