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The Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
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Routes in Otis Power Tower (known in the new Haas book as The Momento)
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Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Cory Fleagle, Eric Malmgren (birthday is September 7th) |
| Page Views: | 727 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Cor on Sep 9, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Location
The route goes up the south face. Start up a short gully to reach the face. Pitch 1 faces west. The others face south. Btween pitch 1 and 2 we moved the belay up to where it gets steep again. There are nice cracks and slabs above. We moved the belay between pitches 3 and 4 also. This helps save time. Near the end of the last pitch - where it faces out, move left to the west side to finish up.
Descend a double rope rap to the climber's left of the tower (west/south). Walk the gully, then do one more double rope rap from a single large hex. Descend the rest of the gully.
Descend a double rope rap to the climber's left of the tower (west/south). Walk the gully, then do one more double rope rap from a single large hex. Descend the rest of the gully.
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