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Routes in Otis Power Tower (known in the new Haas book as The Momento)

Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Cory Fleagle, Eric Malmgren (birthday is September 7th)
Page Views: 100 total · 1/month
Shared By: Cor on Sep 9, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A nice climb up this tower we did on our birthdays, during the 4 Mile Canyon fire.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route goes up the south face. Start up a short gully to reach the face. Pitch 1 faces west. The others face south. Btween pitch 1 and 2 we moved the belay up to where it gets steep again. There are nice cracks and slabs above. We moved the belay between pitches 3 and 4 also. This helps save time. Near the end of the last pitch - where it faces out, move left to the west side to finish up.

Descend a double rope rap to the climber's left of the tower (west/south). Walk the gully, then do one more double rope rap from a single large hex. Descend the rest of the gully.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

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