Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Twin Gate

Blood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climbing School S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Fei Ji (Big Airplane) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Da Pi Gu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smokin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ta Ma De (aka Xiao Fei Ji) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Three Point Five S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Xin Jiang Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: P1: Unknown, P2: Paul Collis, 2003
Page Views: 177 total, 2/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 9, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great route with a thin crux and interesting climbing. The second pitch isn't quite as good, as the climbing is a bit thuggier and more awkward.

Climb up just right of the left hand 'gate', up to a thin, balancy crux. More fun face moves up to a pumpy section bring you to the first anchor. Stop here or link up the 2nd pitch for a more enduro climb, though watch for drag.

Location

This is the left-most route sandwiched between the two gates.

Protection

Bolts to fixed, chain anchors. P1 easy to top rope and a safe lead.

Photos

- No Photos -
mc kaiser
Boulder, CO
 
mc kaiser   Boulder, CO
 
The first pitch is definitely classic (10c). The second (10d) is very fun as well, though I found it several orders of magnitude more difficult than the first- I fell a couple of times and it's ostensibly easier than my on-site grade. No problem linking 1 and 2. Probably not a bad idea to clip a runner to the anchor of the first. I believe I used 13 draws linking the two together. Dec 14, 2016