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Routes in Twin Gate

Blood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climbing School S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Fei Ji (Big Airplane) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Da Pi Gu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smokin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ta Ma De (aka Xiao Fei Ji) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Three Point Five S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Xin Jiang Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1: Ken & Karen McMahon, 1998, P2,3: Paul Collis, Alex Xi Tang, 2003
Page Views: 322 total, 4/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 9, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

The first pitch is clearly the signature route of Twin Gates, and alot of fun. The upper pitches are also good, but need more cleaning of the loose rock. Also, the beginning of the 2nd pitch seems to stay wet longer after rain, even when other routes are completely dry.

P1: Climb the right side of the right 'gate' up to the obvious cave-lip traverse left. Big holds the whole way take you to a the crux: a strenuous step up to gain the face. Continue up, lie-backing and/or stemming up to the last few easier moves to the anchor. Easy to top rope P1 from here.

P2 & 3: Continue straight up from the P1 belay.

Location

This route is hard to miss: its the obvious, overhanging route that climbs the right side of the bigger cave mouth.

Protection

Bolts to 2 bolt chain anchors.

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