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Regenpfeiler
5.8+ PG13,
Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Udo Daigger, H. Daigger - 23Apr'79
International
> Europe
> Greece
> Meteora
> Doupianifels
Description
A great 5 pitch climb.
1st pitch is nice with some close bolting for the area.
The crux is definitely P4.
Location
Approach by parking across the street from the little 'restaurant'. Walk behind (on th right then up to a small church. From here work your way around left to the gully on Doupianifels.
The climb starts with some shiny new bolts as the 1st pitch is retro-bolted.
Protection
Bolts and Ring Pins.
Continue to walk/Scramble at the top back and right to the saddle.
A single Large ringpin is the firs Rap. Rap 45Meters to a spot where you can cross the gully and start walking/scrambling downhill.
Continue until you come to a bulge and the next ringpin will be down and Right(as you are walking)
10 Meters brings you to the next walk which you can walk out to the base.
![Where you start rappelling if you have only a single 60m rope. Walk (or rap) 10m down to the anchor, and then two 30m rappels to the ground.]()
[Hide Photo] Where you start rappelling if you have only a single 60m rope. Walk (or rap) 10m down to the anchor, and then two 30m rappels to the ground.
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Bellevue, WA
Single 60m rope is fine for the north rappel!
KEY NOTES
- Approach: 3 minutes
- Linking: Can link some pitches
- Rope: Single 60m is fine, you can rappel off the back (north) side via two 30m rappels
- Draws: 8 if pitching it out, 11 if linking (3-4 alpine draws are handy, but it’s mostly a straight route)
- Comms: Sometimes out of sight of each other, especially if linking
- Some guidebooks call this route “Pillar of Rain”
- At the start of P4, there’s two bolt lines. The left line is the classic route, the right line seemed to go at about 5.9 also.
P1: ~40m, 8 bolts
P2: ~30m 2 bolts
P3: ~10m 0 bolts (walk up the dirt)
P4: ~30m, ~6 bolts
P5: ~15m 1 bolt
DESCENT: With a single 60m rope, from the top, walk a minute further up, stopping at the nice flat area before the rock continues steeper up, and spot a bolt on the flat ground. To your left (northwest) you’ll notice a set of 3 anchors about 10m down the wall. You can walk to the ANCHOR FURTHEST SKIERS RIGHT via an exposed dirt ledge, or do a micro rappel off the single bolt to get to the anchor.
R1: 30m, down and climbers right. Get onto the right side of the bulging wall, and choose an anchor near the end of your rope (there’s several anchors once again).
R2: 30m, straight down to the ground. It’s essentially full length, so it’s important you chose a previous anchor that was close to your full length of rope too.
Then walk around the climbers right of the cliff for 5 minutes till you spot an opening to the nice flat smooth rock on the right, and walk up and over the smooth rock and then back down to the road! It’s about a 10 minute walk back to your car. Oct 21, 2022