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Peanut Butter

5.8, Trad, TR, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 07 - Ra… > 7.3 - Horse Rampart

Description

Climb the lower face to the ledge. Continue on the left corner. The crux of the route is the section past the ledge.

Location

Detached tower at the end of the Horse Rampart. 40 ft past Via Apia. The route is around the corner to the right of Mung.

Protection

The lower section has no option for pro.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rhoads putting in the first pro.
[Hide Photo] Rhoads putting in the first pro.
PB starts on the face and follows the corner to the top.
[Hide Photo] PB starts on the face and follows the corner to the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tradiban
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] No pro to the ledge but is sucks it up after that. Sep 15, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] I managed to get in one small RP and a marginal Metolius Purple TCU then a Red BD Micro cam to protect the bouldery start moves (anyone of which were a bit sketchy alone but OK as a system). This climb is way fun on the lead and especially fun as an onsight. The upper moves are steep and unsure as to what's coming from below but good when the committment to them is made. Sep 29, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Burt, where? Around the corner to the left? Sep 29, 2011
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Nope... Got these placements right on the face itself that make up the starting moves of this climb. I am thinking most folks would just dismiss any of these sketchy gear options I mention and just boulder the start moves because you get chunky hand and foot holds after the first 10-15 feet of hard pulls but they are there and will protect the start moves atleast marginally. Sep 29, 2011